Here's a DIY tip for saving yourself about $50 next time your saginaw power steering pump bites the dust.
You could spend $60+ on a remanufactured power steering pump or you could save some hard earned cash and rebuild one yourself with some mechanical skills, a little time, and either this $15 rebuild kit P/N 7910 from Checker Auto Parts
or this $12 seal kit P/N 7918 also from Checker Auto Parts
If your power steering pump is leaking, steering wheel is harder to turn, the pump belt is squealing even though it's tight?
If so, and if your power steering pump looks like the picture below left, it's a Saginaw
These pumps are found in one of myriad older cars from the 70's and 80's: Buicks, Cadillacs, Chevrolets, Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, GMCs, Volvos, Saabs, Chryslers, AMCs, Jeeps.
Above right is the kit I got at AutoZone (based on '86 Jeep Grand Wagoner). PN 7918. Note: if your shaft bushing is worn, you're better off to go into the parts store and compare kits to make sure you get the one with the shaft bushing. Otherwise, the seal kit (the 7918 Checker Auto Parts link above) is cheapest I've found thus far.
You'll need at least some of these tools (below left):
To begin disassembly, you'll want to use an electric or air impact wrench with long socket on #1 and #2 in the picture above right.
For #3 above, remove the fitting (probably did this already when you took out the pump) and use a 1" socket on the fitting to remove it. Be careful because there is a pressure valve that you'll need to remove (below left).
You'll need to use a power steering pump pulley remover/installer kit (available for borrowing from AutoZone, Checker; also available for purchase at these places and HarborFreight) I don't have any pictures of how to use this tool as they may vary. You can also have your local auto parts store remove the pulley for you.
Now place the pump in the vise (below left). There is a flat spot on the snout casting, so clamp onto that. Use a rubber mallet and tap off the cover. Remove the magnet and clean off all the metal flakes from it (below right).
Next, you'll need to remove the lock ring that holds the pressure plate in place. There's a hole at the bottom of the PS casting through which you can insert a nail or similar object to force the lock ring out. You can then pry it out.
If it helps, you may have to press down on the pressure plate while doing the above.
Above right are the parts that you've taken out so far. The lock ring, pressure plate, spring that holds the pressure plate against the lock ring, magnet, and pressure relief valve.
Inside, you'll see the pump assembly held in with a couple pins. The assembly is made up of a front and rear cover, sandwiching the eccentric housing and the vane and rotor assembly.
IMPORTANT NOTE BEFORE YOU REMOVE ANYTHING ELSE: Find the arrows on the eccentric housing, and note whether they are positioned at the front or the back of the power steering pump. You can install the housing in the wrong way. If you do, when you reinstall in your vehicle, you will find it extremely hard to turn the steering wheel--the pump is actually fighting against you instead of assisting you. Ask me how I know!
There are many little steel vanes that slide in and out of slots on the rotor. First, remove the small lock ring on the pump shaft holding this assembly in. And, when you tip the pump upside down to tap out this assembly be careful you don't lose any parts. When you're done you'll have a bigger pile of parts.
Finally you'll need to tap the shaft (above right) from the front at which point you've got a yet bigger pile of parts.
Now, remove the front seal (above right). You can also drive out the shaft bushing and replace that.
Finally everything is disassembled. Now it's time to replace all the remaining seals and reassemble. Replace the o-ring on the rear pressure regulator fitting (below left).
Replace the large o-ring around the pump housing, and the two small and one medium o-ring on the back face (above right).
Reassembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly. Remember to put that eccentric housing in with the arrow on the correct side (rear, probably) based on where you found it during disassembly.
Some common problems you may encounter: Pump doesn't work, hard to turn the steering wheel -- did you get the pump housing in right? If you reverse the arrows (see above) it will fight the wheel instead of assisting it. Pump leaks around reservoir. Sometimes the reservoirs aren't quite true. When this happened to me, I used a different one and it turned out ok. Also be sure to carefully clean out the reservoir especially where the o-ring on the pump body contacts the flange.
You could spend $60+ on a remanufactured power steering pump or you could save some hard earned cash and rebuild one yourself with some mechanical skills, a little time, and either this $15 rebuild kit P/N 7910 from Checker Auto Parts
If your power steering pump is leaking, steering wheel is harder to turn, the pump belt is squealing even though it's tight?
If so, and if your power steering pump looks like the picture below left, it's a Saginaw
;)
;)
These pumps are found in one of myriad older cars from the 70's and 80's: Buicks, Cadillacs, Chevrolets, Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, GMCs, Volvos, Saabs, Chryslers, AMCs, Jeeps.
Above right is the kit I got at AutoZone (based on '86 Jeep Grand Wagoner). PN 7918. Note: if your shaft bushing is worn, you're better off to go into the parts store and compare kits to make sure you get the one with the shaft bushing. Otherwise, the seal kit (the 7918 Checker Auto Parts link above) is cheapest I've found thus far.
You'll need at least some of these tools (below left):
- Impact wrench for removing mounting studs and fittings
- Combination wrenches for reinstall to prevent stripping studs
- Thin screwdrivers for prying
- A nail, scribe or punch, you'll see why
- The red box to the left is the kit for removing the P/S pulley.
- Hammer for tapping out the shaft
- A seal puller tool will also help.
;)
;)
To begin disassembly, you'll want to use an electric or air impact wrench with long socket on #1 and #2 in the picture above right.
For #3 above, remove the fitting (probably did this already when you took out the pump) and use a 1" socket on the fitting to remove it. Be careful because there is a pressure valve that you'll need to remove (below left).
;)
;)
You'll need to use a power steering pump pulley remover/installer kit (available for borrowing from AutoZone, Checker; also available for purchase at these places and HarborFreight) I don't have any pictures of how to use this tool as they may vary. You can also have your local auto parts store remove the pulley for you.
Now place the pump in the vise (below left). There is a flat spot on the snout casting, so clamp onto that. Use a rubber mallet and tap off the cover. Remove the magnet and clean off all the metal flakes from it (below right).
;)
;)
Next, you'll need to remove the lock ring that holds the pressure plate in place. There's a hole at the bottom of the PS casting through which you can insert a nail or similar object to force the lock ring out. You can then pry it out.
;)
;)
If it helps, you may have to press down on the pressure plate while doing the above.
;)
;)
Above right are the parts that you've taken out so far. The lock ring, pressure plate, spring that holds the pressure plate against the lock ring, magnet, and pressure relief valve.
Inside, you'll see the pump assembly held in with a couple pins. The assembly is made up of a front and rear cover, sandwiching the eccentric housing and the vane and rotor assembly.
IMPORTANT NOTE BEFORE YOU REMOVE ANYTHING ELSE: Find the arrows on the eccentric housing, and note whether they are positioned at the front or the back of the power steering pump. You can install the housing in the wrong way. If you do, when you reinstall in your vehicle, you will find it extremely hard to turn the steering wheel--the pump is actually fighting against you instead of assisting you. Ask me how I know!
There are many little steel vanes that slide in and out of slots on the rotor. First, remove the small lock ring on the pump shaft holding this assembly in. And, when you tip the pump upside down to tap out this assembly be careful you don't lose any parts. When you're done you'll have a bigger pile of parts.
;)
;)
Finally you'll need to tap the shaft (above right) from the front at which point you've got a yet bigger pile of parts.
;)
;)
Now, remove the front seal (above right). You can also drive out the shaft bushing and replace that.
Finally everything is disassembled. Now it's time to replace all the remaining seals and reassemble. Replace the o-ring on the rear pressure regulator fitting (below left).
;)
;)
Replace the large o-ring around the pump housing, and the two small and one medium o-ring on the back face (above right).
Reassembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly. Remember to put that eccentric housing in with the arrow on the correct side (rear, probably) based on where you found it during disassembly.
Some common problems you may encounter: Pump doesn't work, hard to turn the steering wheel -- did you get the pump housing in right? If you reverse the arrows (see above) it will fight the wheel instead of assisting it. Pump leaks around reservoir. Sometimes the reservoirs aren't quite true. When this happened to me, I used a different one and it turned out ok. Also be sure to carefully clean out the reservoir especially where the o-ring on the pump body contacts the flange.
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