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Sound Clip of TC's Motor
I had Verle Stevens Enterprises build up the stock 360 bored 0.030"
over, with good quality parts, Comp Cams 260H cam and Edelbrock performer intake.
What worked: The motor runs quietly and smoothly and it hasn't exploded or anything.
What didn't: The intake manifold leaked from the beginning, causing a high idle miss, a lifter went out after 4000 miles, and the motor doesn't produce enough power to hold 65 going up I-70 to the mountains. Frankly it's kind of disappointing since it cost $2800 for the rebuild. I'm not a big fan of the 260H cam. Based on Desktop Dyno (cool program/book) it doesn't seem to make much power between 2000 and 3000rpm where I need it most. Note: as of this writing, I had to pull this motor to fix many oil leaks and coolant leaking into the oil, probably from a failed paper intake manifold gasket. I'm currently using a stock 360 with 2v that has more torque than the rebuilt motor. What's up with that?
Recommendations: Want to improve performance of your 360? Trade it for a 401. No replacement for displacement. That or pick a cam better suited to low CR and better low rpm torque; the Comp Cams 260H ain't it.
I chose a Comp Cams 260H cam based on recommendations from my machinist. For the use of the vehicle, this duration makes fair sense. Overlap is ok for fuel injection according to the company, but it is probably a bit more than some cams
What worked: I guess it is passable from 3000 rpm and up. Acceleration isn't awful once the motor spins up (and the Qjet helped). Power is...tolerable.
What didn't: I can't pull big mountain passes worth a damn. I'm lucky to hold 60 mph at full throttle with the secondaries open. After much tinkering (don't suggest how to make it better; whatever you're about to say, I've already thought of it and tried it) The truck seems sluggish from 2000-2500 especially and just doesn't have juice up the hills except at higher rpms.
Recommendations: I blame the cam. Desktop Dyno suggests the cam falls short of others in low CR motors like mine especially 2000-2500. It does better with higher CR and better exhaust but there are better choices. Too much overlap and not enough low torque may explain the poor idle, and 1-2mpg drop in mileage. I may use Desktop Dyno to select a cam for the 360 as-is and then add small tube headers to see if the program is all that. Maybe it'll wake things up a bit. So far, either the Edelbrock Performer or, even better, a grind based on the Pontiac 066 vintage cam seem best.
I had Discount Muffler on Evans and I-25 put in a 3" system including Y-pipe, Magnaflow muffler, and high-flow catalytic converter, shortly after getting the Jeep.
What worked: The setup improved high-rpm (highway) performance dramatically.
What didn't: Low end torque seemed to suffer and the new Y-pipe was ugly as sin. The pricetag was damn painful at $800. Finally, it's not easy finding shops to replace 3" pipe with trail damage.
Mixed bag: The Magnaflow is loud as hell but sounds cool and quiets down over time.
Recommendations: Run 2.5" single system for a 360, 3" for a 401, high flow cat, and either Magnaflow or Flowmaster exhaust but leave the Y-pipe the hell alone. Use aluminized tube if you can afford it. Shop around.
I am running a 45,000V MSD Blaster 2 coil which is not vibration resistant but has lasted a few years off-highway, at least. I converted to the TFI style cap and rotor with brass inserts (aluminum doesn't conduct electricity very well) which should remove the possibility of cross-wire arcing. I'm using Borg Warner Select 8mm plug wires for a Ford 460 V8. Finally I am running a recurved distributor by Wilke Dudden from All American 4x4 on South Santa Fe.
What worked: To me the only real advantage of the TFI conversion isn't performance but a cleaner, more modern looking plug wire installation which is nice. The Borg-Warner wires are cheap, probably not as good as MSD or others, but at least I don't have to install custom wires. Yuck. Meanwhile, that recurved distributed probably made the most performance improvement I've noticed in awhile. I have more throttle response at all rpms and lots more juice off the line.
What didn't: I tried Bosch Platinum +4 plugs and before that regular Platinums. Don't bother. A guy at a local race shop told me only high performance motors with computer controls benefit. He said a plain old set of Autolite plugs would probably work better in my vehicle. I swapped some in and didn't notice any change. I gapped 'em a bit wider, to a more TFI-like 0.045" and noticed marginally improved idle quality.
Overview
Sound Clip of TC's Motor
- AMC 360 V8 Machined and assembled by Verle Stevens Enterprises*
- Bored 0.030" over and balanced
- Comp Cams 260H, degreed, with double roller timing set
- Edelbrock Performer manifold with EGR
- 800cfm Quadrajet carb
- Edelbrock 3"x14" Pro-flow air cleaner housing
- High performance Conrad TFI cap and rotor
- 8mm Borg-Warner plug wires MSD Blaster 2 coil Autolite spark plugs
- 3" custom single exhaust with Magnaflow muffler and high-flow catalytic converter
- Carter electric fuel pump [wiring diagram][high res, printable]
- 4-row radiator
- B&M 14,000-19,000 GVW auxillary transmission cooler
Engine
- 3-angle valve job, hardened valve seats
- Reconditioned rods, ARP bolts, Michigan 77 bearings
- Moly rings, standard cast pistons
- Oiling system modified to increase oiling to rear main bearing
What worked: The motor runs quietly and smoothly and it hasn't exploded or anything.
What didn't: The intake manifold leaked from the beginning, causing a high idle miss, a lifter went out after 4000 miles, and the motor doesn't produce enough power to hold 65 going up I-70 to the mountains. Frankly it's kind of disappointing since it cost $2800 for the rebuild. I'm not a big fan of the 260H cam. Based on Desktop Dyno (cool program/book) it doesn't seem to make much power between 2000 and 3000rpm where I need it most. Note: as of this writing, I had to pull this motor to fix many oil leaks and coolant leaking into the oil, probably from a failed paper intake manifold gasket. I'm currently using a stock 360 with 2v that has more torque than the rebuilt motor. What's up with that?
Recommendations: Want to improve performance of your 360? Trade it for a 401. No replacement for displacement. That or pick a cam better suited to low CR and better low rpm torque; the Comp Cams 260H ain't it.
Camshaft
I chose a Comp Cams 260H cam based on recommendations from my machinist. For the use of the vehicle, this duration makes fair sense. Overlap is ok for fuel injection according to the company, but it is probably a bit more than some cams
What worked: I guess it is passable from 3000 rpm and up. Acceleration isn't awful once the motor spins up (and the Qjet helped). Power is...tolerable.
What didn't: I can't pull big mountain passes worth a damn. I'm lucky to hold 60 mph at full throttle with the secondaries open. After much tinkering (don't suggest how to make it better; whatever you're about to say, I've already thought of it and tried it) The truck seems sluggish from 2000-2500 especially and just doesn't have juice up the hills except at higher rpms.
Recommendations: I blame the cam. Desktop Dyno suggests the cam falls short of others in low CR motors like mine especially 2000-2500. It does better with higher CR and better exhaust but there are better choices. Too much overlap and not enough low torque may explain the poor idle, and 1-2mpg drop in mileage. I may use Desktop Dyno to select a cam for the 360 as-is and then add small tube headers to see if the program is all that. Maybe it'll wake things up a bit. So far, either the Edelbrock Performer or, even better, a grind based on the Pontiac 066 vintage cam seem best.
Exhaust System
I had Discount Muffler on Evans and I-25 put in a 3" system including Y-pipe, Magnaflow muffler, and high-flow catalytic converter, shortly after getting the Jeep.
What worked: The setup improved high-rpm (highway) performance dramatically.
What didn't: Low end torque seemed to suffer and the new Y-pipe was ugly as sin. The pricetag was damn painful at $800. Finally, it's not easy finding shops to replace 3" pipe with trail damage.
Mixed bag: The Magnaflow is loud as hell but sounds cool and quiets down over time.
Recommendations: Run 2.5" single system for a 360, 3" for a 401, high flow cat, and either Magnaflow or Flowmaster exhaust but leave the Y-pipe the hell alone. Use aluminized tube if you can afford it. Shop around.
Ignition
I am running a 45,000V MSD Blaster 2 coil which is not vibration resistant but has lasted a few years off-highway, at least. I converted to the TFI style cap and rotor with brass inserts (aluminum doesn't conduct electricity very well) which should remove the possibility of cross-wire arcing. I'm using Borg Warner Select 8mm plug wires for a Ford 460 V8. Finally I am running a recurved distributor by Wilke Dudden from All American 4x4 on South Santa Fe.
What worked: To me the only real advantage of the TFI conversion isn't performance but a cleaner, more modern looking plug wire installation which is nice. The Borg-Warner wires are cheap, probably not as good as MSD or others, but at least I don't have to install custom wires. Yuck. Meanwhile, that recurved distributed probably made the most performance improvement I've noticed in awhile. I have more throttle response at all rpms and lots more juice off the line.
What didn't: I tried Bosch Platinum +4 plugs and before that regular Platinums. Don't bother. A guy at a local race shop told me only high performance motors with computer controls benefit. He said a plain old set of Autolite plugs would probably work better in my vehicle. I swapped some in and didn't notice any change. I gapped 'em a bit wider, to a more TFI-like 0.045" and noticed marginally improved idle quality.
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