Engine | Geartrain | Chassis | Electronics | Interior | Goodies | Photos | Trails Explored
I did a great deal of research into the various lift kit options and ultimately selected the kit that the most IFSJA members liked at the time (1999). It turns out this was a fantastic choice. I'm glad I got all four springs as this gives the best performance. I selected Rancho RS9000's for dampening. I use Warrior quick disconnects to enable better on-road handling and better off-road flex.
What Worked: The whole thing. It's awesome. Sticking to 4" lift, no body lift, great idea.
The Skyjacker Softride 4" lift rides better than several other lift kits I've experienced including Rancho 2", Superlift 4", BJ's 6", and Rough Country 3". It also handles far better and rides much more pleasantly than the old saggy springs. The RS9000's work very well to compliment the quality ride.
Off-road this system shines. I have left behind other FSJs with less flexy suspensions and was able to run for years without a locker on up to 5- or 6- rated trails. The vehicle ramped around 500 on the ramp to the right (ramp angle unknown), which isn't bad for a spring lift with front Spring-Under-Axle configuration.
What didn't: Thinking the lift install would go smoothly and quickly. I was working on it with a bud after work until all hours of the night for a week straight right before a big trip to Moab.
Mixed Bag: The Warrior disconnects improve flex but they are kind of, well, cheesy for the price and are a pain to install and remove. A crow bar helps. Plan on getting dirty whenever you swap 'em in or out.
I'll update this soon with some impressions of the new BFG Mud Terrain tires.
For a long time I used 31" BFG All Terrain tires because they offered pretty good off-highway capability and very quiet on-road operation, good snow handling, etc. Well, I couldn't resist the lure of excellent rock crawling performance of the Goodyear MT/R tires and I happened to find a line on a fantastic deal. This truck is becoming more and more a trail beast every day despite my original plan to try and keep it as a highly capable, civilized, daily driver.
But, TC didn't go over to the dark side entirely, because the MT/Rs are pretty quiet and well-behaved on the highway. That is the primary reason I got them instead of any of the other mud tires. That combined with the very low durometer and proven rock crawling performance and high sidewall durability and I was completely sold.
What worked: Now that I've run them on a few tough trails I can say they do the job reasonably well. Not having run other 33" tires on these same trails I can't compare. Also a bonus, they look totally bad-ass and transformed the rig's overall appearance. I am pleased with the treadwear. I put them on in 2002 and still have 60-70% tread left in 2006. I want to say I've put something like 10k miles on them in that time.
What didn't: They are hellishly expensive compared to other muds, but I did get a super deal on them. Are they worth it? The jury is still out. The big downfall I've noticed, having run much harder trails lately, is that I am indeed wanting for traction. A recent magazine article suggested that the amazingly strong sidewalls on these tires are stiff and thus lower air pressure than normal is needed to increase traction.
So... do you think running 17 PSI is too high??? Yeah, probably. I hope to field test them with lower pressures on some of the slicker trails this season (2006) and report back. I have a feeling they'll better live up to their potential with pressures in the 8-12 PSI range. Otherwise I'm switching back to BFG ATs.
I have fought crappy brakes for awhile now. One thing that firmed up the pedal were stainless steel braided brake lines. This is a common hop-up for sports cars. The braided wrapping holds pressure, distorting less than rubber-only lines. I also switched to Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid which I swear by. Flushing fluid regularly helps, too. I also installed new hard line up front which helped along with new calipers and new master cylinder. New pads front and new shoes in the rear helped too, and Raybestos PG Plus models are pretty decent pads, not requiring a warm-up time to be effective as with the Super Stops. However, I think a new booster would really transform braking on the vehicle which has always required a lot of leg strength to brake quickly. A friend's 84 Grand Wagoneer has a new booster and practically throws you through the windshield if you think about touching the brake pedal. I didn't want to go nuts with the brake system as far as modifications so no Hydroboost for me, thanks. As it is, the truck stops pretty well, it just requires a lot of strength to do it.
Overview
- 4" Skyjacker all-spring lift, Rancho RS9000 shocks
- Warrior anti-sway bar quick disconnects
- 33x12.50" BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/As
- Braided stainless steel extended length brake hose
- Valvoline synthetic brake fluid
Lift Kit
I did a great deal of research into the various lift kit options and ultimately selected the kit that the most IFSJA members liked at the time (1999). It turns out this was a fantastic choice. I'm glad I got all four springs as this gives the best performance. I selected Rancho RS9000's for dampening. I use Warrior quick disconnects to enable better on-road handling and better off-road flex.What Worked: The whole thing. It's awesome. Sticking to 4" lift, no body lift, great idea.
The Skyjacker Softride 4" lift rides better than several other lift kits I've experienced including Rancho 2", Superlift 4", BJ's 6", and Rough Country 3". It also handles far better and rides much more pleasantly than the old saggy springs. The RS9000's work very well to compliment the quality ride.
Off-road this system shines. I have left behind other FSJs with less flexy suspensions and was able to run for years without a locker on up to 5- or 6- rated trails. The vehicle ramped around 500 on the ramp to the right (ramp angle unknown), which isn't bad for a spring lift with front Spring-Under-Axle configuration.
What didn't: Thinking the lift install would go smoothly and quickly. I was working on it with a bud after work until all hours of the night for a week straight right before a big trip to Moab.
Mixed Bag: The Warrior disconnects improve flex but they are kind of, well, cheesy for the price and are a pain to install and remove. A crow bar helps. Plan on getting dirty whenever you swap 'em in or out.
Tires
I'll update this soon with some impressions of the new BFG Mud Terrain tires.For a long time I used 31" BFG All Terrain tires because they offered pretty good off-highway capability and very quiet on-road operation, good snow handling, etc. Well, I couldn't resist the lure of excellent rock crawling performance of the Goodyear MT/R tires and I happened to find a line on a fantastic deal. This truck is becoming more and more a trail beast every day despite my original plan to try and keep it as a highly capable, civilized, daily driver.
But, TC didn't go over to the dark side entirely, because the MT/Rs are pretty quiet and well-behaved on the highway. That is the primary reason I got them instead of any of the other mud tires. That combined with the very low durometer and proven rock crawling performance and high sidewall durability and I was completely sold.
What worked: Now that I've run them on a few tough trails I can say they do the job reasonably well. Not having run other 33" tires on these same trails I can't compare. Also a bonus, they look totally bad-ass and transformed the rig's overall appearance. I am pleased with the treadwear. I put them on in 2002 and still have 60-70% tread left in 2006. I want to say I've put something like 10k miles on them in that time.
What didn't: They are hellishly expensive compared to other muds, but I did get a super deal on them. Are they worth it? The jury is still out. The big downfall I've noticed, having run much harder trails lately, is that I am indeed wanting for traction. A recent magazine article suggested that the amazingly strong sidewalls on these tires are stiff and thus lower air pressure than normal is needed to increase traction.
So... do you think running 17 PSI is too high??? Yeah, probably. I hope to field test them with lower pressures on some of the slicker trails this season (2006) and report back. I have a feeling they'll better live up to their potential with pressures in the 8-12 PSI range. Otherwise I'm switching back to BFG ATs.
Brakes
I have fought crappy brakes for awhile now. One thing that firmed up the pedal were stainless steel braided brake lines. This is a common hop-up for sports cars. The braided wrapping holds pressure, distorting less than rubber-only lines. I also switched to Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid which I swear by. Flushing fluid regularly helps, too. I also installed new hard line up front which helped along with new calipers and new master cylinder. New pads front and new shoes in the rear helped too, and Raybestos PG Plus models are pretty decent pads, not requiring a warm-up time to be effective as with the Super Stops. However, I think a new booster would really transform braking on the vehicle which has always required a lot of leg strength to brake quickly. A friend's 84 Grand Wagoneer has a new booster and practically throws you through the windshield if you think about touching the brake pedal. I didn't want to go nuts with the brake system as far as modifications so no Hydroboost for me, thanks. As it is, the truck stops pretty well, it just requires a lot of strength to do it.
Random Entry
