Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 06:54 AM -
OutdoorsPosted by Michael
Phase 1

As much as I love the sporterized
M1917 US Enfield I'm borrowing, it is a bit heavy to heft around in the woods looking for deer.
Enter my 102 year old Carl Gustafs Swedish Mauser which I bought a number of years ago. Don't worry, Mom and Dad, I had a gunsmith check it out long ago.
Little did I know then that these guns are considered by many to be the finest of the military Mauser rifles due to wonderful craftsmanship and excellent accuracy both with the rifle and the round.
Mine is not numbers matching, has a beat stock, chopped barrel, and sporterized bolt handle so I have no qualms about sporterizing it.
Recoil is light, ballistics are excellent to 200 yards and the action on mine works far more smoothly than any rifle I've yet encountered, new or old. I really dig this gun. I've shot it more than a few times, only to learn that I don't get along with iron sights.
So how do you turn an old, non-numbers-matching, partly sporterized military surplus rifle into a proper deer gun?
Shorten it, stock it, scope it, sling it.Shorten it

Normally you'd have to have the long barrel cut down to a more manageable size and then have it crowned. This is work for a gunsmith. Before I got it, someone had already chopped the 29" barrel to a more sporting 22". So basically I get to skip this step making it possible to try to finish the project in a couple weeks.
Stock it
I left the stock as-is for deer season. The gun seemed to shoot relatively consistently and it looked cool with the full stock, kind of like a
Mannlicher-Schönauer sporter.
Scope it

Since I can't aim worth a darn using iron sights, a scope was a must. Although the bolt handle has been skillfully modified to accommodate a standard scope, there's no time to have a gunsmith to install the mount.
Mount
Instead I bought a B-Square scout mount from Midway USA that puts the scope above the rear sight leaf, pretty far forward. This will turn the rifle into a poor imitation of
Cooper's Scout Rifle concept using a forward mounted scope of low power (around 2x)

I'm extremely unhappy with the B-Square mount. The mounting screws were too short, and an odd size, so I had to use longer 4-40 screws and fabricate an aluminum plate of 1/16" thickness to replace the original. I carefully fit this plate to eliminate side play in the sight leaf but had to use sheets of brass to shim it further.
The supplied rings were crap, didn't fit, and stripped out. Real weaver rings with steel in the right places fixed that.
Finally, the scope sits pretty high.
Scout Scope
With a scout mount, you need a scout scope -- or pistol scope. A scope with intermediate
eye relief (IER). Normal rifle scopes have about 3-5" of eye relief whereas a scout mount on the Swede calls for something like 12-17". Burris and Leupold make purpose-built scout scopes for rifles, however they are too rich for my blood.
More up my alley is the
Weaver Classic 2X28 pistol scope in gloss black
I have on the way. The specs suggest the eye relief should work and field of view at 100 yards is reasonable. The idea is to acquire the target with both eyes open, the scope allowing for enhanced targeting. Supposedly this results in quicker aiming.

The scope in the picture is an old Redfield Bear Cub 4X to illustrate what the rifle will look like eventually.
Sling it
I had a military sling on the rifle but opted for an inexpensive leather sporting sling that will be a little more comfortable for carrying but not heavy or bulky like the thick padded slings that cost more. Post season, after cutting down the stock, I'll install a swivel stud up front and continue to use the original rear swivel.
Results
Cost so far is $20 for rings, $50 for the scope mount, $130 for the scope and $20 for the sling.
Only problem was, I was sitting on pins and needles hoping the scope would arrive on Thursday as promised. Thankfully it did. I hit the range the next morning and here's what happened.

The M1917 .300 Win Mag was sighted in pretty well (the three holes above the bullseye) printing a 2" max spread at 100 yards, but the Swede (holes are highlighted) was shooting rather erratically during sight in. By the time I shot the last 4 rounds, the barrel was pretty hot and the group was way larger than I felt comfortable with: 3.75" max spread. Ouch. So the Mauser didn't make this year's hunt.
For phase two, I'm chopping the forearm, floating the barrel, and solidifying the scope mount. This will probably help, but the barrel is pretty worn out.
If it still won't shoot, then phase three involves a Bold trigger with side safety, standard scope mount, a new 6.5x55SE A&B barrel I bought years ago, and a nice stock.
Update - 5/22/09
Here's an update on the Swede as of 5/22/09. I put some work into it several months ago after the hunting season.

To address the erratic grouping, I focused on the play in the scope mount due to the rear leaf. Using some brass shim material, I wedged the rear leaf in place. The scope is now completely solid with zero play side to side.
I pulled off the non-matching, beat up stock and chopped down the forearm and installed a swivel stud, shaped the end of it to a nice contour, and installed a proper sporting sling. I also increased the clearance around the barrel in case that was a problem.
Update - 8/18/2010
Between the scope mount shimming and barrel floating, I hoped the gun would shoot true but a trip to the range told a different story. Grouping was once again fairly erratic.
Shooting on a bench makes it tough to narrow down the problem definitively. So I purchased a shooting rest and see if that helps me narrow down the cause.
I have my primary rifle at Colorado School of Trades right now getting some upgrades and that's about all I can afford to get done this season so the Swede will have to wait it out once again.